4 Days in San Sebastián (Where To Eat & What To See) - Well Seasoned Studio (2024)

by Ari Laing Leave a Comment

Discover the vibrant charm of Spain’s northern Basque Country in San Sebastián, a foodie paradise offering a unique blend of an old historic town seamlessly blended with a more modern area.

In addition to an innovative food scene (truly, the pintxos here were some of the best bites I’ve ever had in my life!), San Sebastián is home to some of Spain’s most pristine beaches and has a love for art and culture unlike anything I’ve seen before.

Be sure to wear comfortable walking shoes when you visit, because it’s best experienced on foot. Same as in Bilbao (which we visited before arriving here), they speak both Basque (Euskera) and Spanish here. As an English speaker, it was very easy to get around, but you may want to consider a guide for part of your trip as ours were able to secure food quickly at some of the more crowded spots, and I’m certain it’s because they were locals.

Full review of where we stayed and what we ate below!

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Where We Stayed

Hotel Zenit Convento San Martin — it’s an old converted convent from the late1800’s that has been converted into a modern and trendy hotel.

Things I liked about the hotel:

  • Modern amenities. The hotel must have recently gone through a remodel or renovation, because everything was immaculate and felt very modern.
  • The blinds in the room were these fancy electronic blackout shades that made the room pitch black. Loved this.
  • The staff were incredibly helpful! Throughout our entire stay, they were nothing but kind and seemed to go over-the-top to help us with whatever we needed.
  • Air worked incredibly well! Compared to our stay in Bilbao, the air at Hotel Zenit was easy to use and worked in full force. Much appreciated.

Areas for improvement:

  • While the breakfast buffet was vast (truly, it seemed to go on forever), I much preferred the hotel breakfast at our spot in Bilbao. There was no fresh egg station here (though they will make and bring eggs to order to wherever you’re sitting) and it just felt like things had been sitting out for a while.

Would I stay here again? Yes, absolutely! I loved the location (just off of the big shopping district and easily walkable each night to pintxos), plus the rooms were large, very clean, and extremely comfortable.

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4 Days in San Sebastián (Where To Eat & What To See) - Well Seasoned Studio (3)

Must See Attractions

  1. La Concha Beach: The crescent-shaped beach of San Sebastián! The water is crystal-clear. Often cited as one of the best city beaches in Europe.
  2. Parte Vieja (Old Town): Narrow streets lined with pintxos bars. Obviously, if you come to San Sebastián, it’s for the food. The best pintxos (small skewered or plated Basque tapas) can be found in the historic old town. Be sure to ask for a glass (or 3…) of local txakoli (pronounced “chah-KOH-lee”) wine.
  3. Monte Igueldo: Take a funicular railway up this mountain for breathtaking views and to enjoy the Belle Époque amusem*nt park. We never made it up this way, but all of our guides advised us to do so.
  4. Walk through Casco Viejo (Old Town): Casco Viejo is its charming Old Town, a maze of narrow streets lined with pintxo bars, traditional shops, and the Santiago Cathedral.
  5. Mercado de la Bretxa (La Bretxa Market): This historic market, located near the bustling Parte Vieja, offers a vibrant array of fresh produce, local specialties, and gourmet ingredients. We grabbed fresh seafood and meat from a local butcher here.
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In-Person Basque Cooking Class

Source: Kookin Donost
Location: C. Corta, 3 – Bajo, 20001, Donostia-San Sebastian, Gipuzkoa
Accepts reservations: Classes must be reserved in advance.
Meal: Lunch
Recommended dishes: I absolutely loved the bacalao tortilla (omelette, pictured top left)! The hake and clams with green sauce was unmemorable. My favorite bite, however, was ribeye steak (which is ironically seasoned only after it’s cooked) with roasted piquillo peppers! What a winning combination, and something I intend to serve with steak from here on out. The acidity — it adds so much to the beef! Our dessert was torrija, which is essentially Spanish French toast. Delicious!
Would I go back? Probably not, but I very much enjoyed the class. I think it’s worth doing once (in a new place), but likely not a second time.

This was a really great way to get an insider look at the local market (where we sourced the ingredients for our class), as well as to learn a few classic Basque dishes. Not a must, but enjoyable, particularly with friends who love to cook. Be sure to bring cash to tip the chef!

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Haizea

Restaurant: Haizea
Location: Aldamar Kalea, 8, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Accepts reservations: Not typically, no, but we were lucky enough that our guide was able to get us a table right when they opened
Meal: Pintxos (dinner)
Recommended dishes: The brick de bacalao (cod brick) is a must!! Easily one of our favorite bites of the entire trip!
Would I go back? Yes! But I think they get pretty crowded quickly upon opening and when they’re out of something, that’s it for the night.

The shrimp with tartar sauce was good, but nowhere near as memorable as the cod brick. We also tried the Gilda, the famous Basque pintxo made by skewering together green olives, salt-cured anchovies, and pickled guindilla peppers. This one packs a punch! I’ve heard the langoustines here are incredible, so definitely try those if you go!

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4 Days in San Sebastián (Where To Eat & What To See) - Well Seasoned Studio (7)

Bar Txepetxa

Restaurant: Bar Txepetxa
Location: Arrandegi Kalea, 5, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Accepts reservations: No
Meal: Pintxos (dinner)
Recommended dishes: They live and breathe anchovies, so that’s what you’ll find here! Anchovies with pickled peppers (bottom right) and anchovies with some type of uni cream sauce (middle). Both fantastic!
Would I go back? Yes, in a heartbeat!

They truly only serve anchovies, so go with a friend or family and plan to split each one. You just need a bite!

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Kapadokia Bar

Restaurant: Kapadokia Bar
Location: Arrandegi Kalea, 10, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Accepts reservations: Yes
Meal: Pintxos (dinner)
Recommended dishes: Squidghetti (bottom left), a genius dish using squid for pasta and topped with a rich, luscious bolognese, prawn ravioli with leek, cream and fennel (top right), orzo risotto with asparagus and crispy ham (bottom right) were all unreal.
Would I go back? Yes! In fact, we did go back a second time. It was that good.

Our second visit to Kapadokia was also fantastic. Be sure to try the oxtail tacos, but you can skip the octopus. Don’t forget to order txakoli to drink!

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Bar Borda Berri

Restaurant: Bar Borda Berri
Location: Fermin Calbeton Kalea, 12, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Accepts reservations: Hah, no.
Meal: Pintxos (dinner)
Recommended dishes: I was underwhelmed by all of these, but it may have been the intense crowds we were fighting through to order. And we were so cramped that we all just wanted to eat quickly so we could leave. We tried the white asparagus, fish of the day, and pork rib (this one was actually very good!).
Would I go back? No, probably not.

The crowds here were absolutely insane. and we were there in May, before busy season with tourists! I can’t even imagine going back and attempting to order in broken Basque or Spanglish with the crowds the way that they were.

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Atari Gastroleku

Restaurant: Atari Gastroleku
Location: C. Mayor, 18, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastian, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Accepts reservations: Yes
Meal: Pintxos (dinner)
Recommended dishes: We actually came here twice, as both of our guides wanted to share different dishes with us. Standouts were the foie gras (not pictured) and the shrimp (above, left image). Service is quick, friendly, but fast-paced. Portions are very large, so I recommend sharing.

This was our last savory spot on our first night eating pintxos, so I think we were all stuffed and tired by the time we made it here. But our next guide brought us back the following day and all I can say is go early to order the seared foie gras! Once they sell out, they’re done for the day.

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4 Days in San Sebastián (Where To Eat & What To See) - Well Seasoned Studio (12)

The Best Dessert

Restaurant: La Viña
Location: 31 de Agosto Kalea, 3, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Accepts reservations: No
Meal: Dessert
Recommended dishes: This is the place to get burnt Basque cheesecake. The exterior has a crisp burnt-looking top, while the center is not fully set (intentionally so!). It gets it’s distinctive appearance from cooking at a high temperature for less time that you’d expect for a cheesecake. The result? Cheesecake perfection.
Would I go back? Hell yes!! In fact, we did!

Our first visit was exceptional, but we had our wonderful guide, Clara, with us to order on our behalf. When we went back a second time, the staff was less friendly to us and overlooked us (as tourists) for other patrons. Still worth it to get a slice or two!

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4 Days in San Sebastián (Where To Eat & What To See) - Well Seasoned Studio (14)

Thoughts on San Sebastián

This city has so much going for it! With breathtaking beaches, old world and new world charm, an appreciation for art and culture, and a love and devotion for food unlike anything I’ve ever seen or experienced in my life before, San Sebastián just may be my favorite European city to visit to date.

Is San Sebastián family-friendly? Yes! While there were lots of children out and about, I don’t quite think my own kids are ready for a place like San Sebastián simply because they’re not adventurous enough eaters yet. Also, as a parent, it was really nice to be in restaurants late at night without kids. There are a ton of crowds, particularly in the summer in San Sebastián, and I can see it being a bit overwhelming for little ones.

How’s public transportation? We walked absolutely everywhere! We didn’t set foot on public transportation (except a cab once or twice when we were too exhausted to walk another inch). The old part of town is extremely walkable and best enjoyed on foot.

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The entire trip was planned with the help of my friend Varsha. If you’re looking for assistance in planning your next trip to Spain — or anywhere! — feel free to send her a message. From setting up our tour guides to ensuring transfers from city to city, she handles it all.

San Sebastián, you are the hidden gem and foodie paradise I never knew existed, and I’m so glad we met. I can see myself returning a dozen times and never tiring of your culinary innovation. Counting down the days till I can come back!

Check out my guide on our trip to Bilbao, Spain next!

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